Why does it not matter if I buy anti-aging skincare?

It seems that every minute we are being bombarded with the latest and greatest in the beauty industry there are so many claims and so many steps. What does it all really boil down to?

Time and time again I am asked why I prescribe skin care that doesn’t say anti-aging on the bottle. The reason that I don’t pay much attention to that is that the word anti-aging is marketing and meant to get you to buy in. I whole-heartedly believe that if you stick to the basics and keep your skin balanced it will heal and rejuvenate itself. The skin is a miraculous organ that is meant to keep us waterproof, absorb, provide heat regulation, it’s our first defense in our immune system, it is a sensory organ and it provides detox for waste. Without our skin, we would not live for long. For all it does, I think we forget how resilient and amazing it is!

Here are some simple ways that you can give your skin what it needs for a long term youthful appearance

Your skin naturally desquamates. It is literally shedding right now! We loose 40,000 skin cells in 40 minutes!

Stop over exfoliating and scrubbing  When we do activities like scrubbing daily or using chemical peels that are aggressive what we are actually doing is scrubbing off our protective barrier and allowing all the water to evaporate leaving a dehydrated unprotected skin. We are also actually causing a low-level inflammation that you will think is a good thing when your wrinkles disappear, however, a few years down the line when you start to see brown spots and more wrinkles you will realize that this low level “skinflammation” was really creating aging. exfoliating is recommended just stop trying to scrape your skin down to baby level!

Eat Fat Really! fat doesn’t make you fat and interestingly our cell membranes are made out of the stuff so without it in the diet it makes it hard to make plump beautiful cells that allow water to flow in and out. Eat only the good stuff! Stay away from hydrogenated trans fats and industrial oils like canola or cottonseed, which are all inflammatory. Upgrade and include coconut oil, avocado, and wild caught fish to your diet

Choose chirally correct vitamin C and look to see what co-factors are delivered with it. C by itself is fine, but for your cells to recognize and utilize it properly it is typically packaged with amino acids. 

Simplify Your Skincare When choosing products I recommend evaluating the net loss this means if an ingredient is going to challenge the skin what are you losing in exchange? Is it going to result in inflammation or lack of circulation? There are a lot of products that include high amounts of acids and things that are immunosuppressors which give you instant gratification and are accepted and approved however will not keep you looking good for long. There are so many superfluous ingredients on the market that haven’t been proven to do anything and maybe in theory sound good, but there are no mechanisms for their benefit. Sticking with Vitamin C and Vitamin A are your best bet for repair. Choose chirally correct vitamin C and look to see what co-factors are delivered with it. C by itself is fine, but for your cells to recognize and utilize it properly it is typically packaged with amino acids. Vitamin A has been the gold standard forever. To really make a difference you want retinaldehyde. This is the form that is normally found in the dermis and the skin uses it to make nice fluffy collagen. Your skin will know what to do with it and it won’t cause inflammation to get there. Conventional forms of vitamin A include retinols and retinoids as well as prescription levels. These ingredients irritate the skin while it is moving throughout the epidermis. If you have ever experienced it it’s pretty rough! Going back to the theory on inflammation and how it actually causes more long term harm the conventional forms of A really don’t have a benefit long term. Not only are they irritating, but they thin the skin out leaving redness and swollen capillaries.

There is no such thing as Anti-aging! All skincare that balances and feeds the skin is performing a function to support aging skin!

My advice is to use less and invest in the best quality ingredients as well as delivery systems. Our skin can only really absorb about 2-5% into the epidermis without the help of delivery systems. Liposomes are a great way to deliver nutrition at home and devices like microcurrent are fantastic in the treatment room to aid in a larger dose of the ingredients. Choosing products specifically for antiaging will get you lots of exfoliants and fragrance as well as typically heavier moisturizers. These may not even be suited for your skin type and concern and, furthermore may do more harm than good!